The latest comparisons between violet and non violet green cheeks. quaker colour combination COMPARISONS With the vast amount of mutations and available in Australia, it can be difficult to find professional and concise comparisons between each colour. It is tricky for the untrained eye to see difference between the different mutations and what the effect is on the structural colour if you are unsure what you're looking for. Here are some comparison photographs to help distinguish them. DO NOT screenshot, save or republish any copyrighted photographs from this website without expressed permission by the owner. This is a copyright infringement and punishable by law. For the comprehensive colour chart, click here. GROUP SHOTS L-R: Turquoise, Blue Opaline, Blue, Blue Pallid, Cobalt Pallid, Cobalt Opaline, Cobalt L-R: Dark Green Opaline, Dark Green, Green, Green Pallid, Green Pallidino GREEN PALLID VS GREEN PALLIDINO VS LUTINO L-R: Green Pallidino, Green Pallid, Lutino L-R: Lutino, Green Pallidino, Green Pallid L-R: Green Pallid, Green Pallidino Cobalt vs Cobalt Opaline vs Cobalt pallid L-R: Cobalt Pallid, Cobalt, Cobalt Opaline L-R: Cobalt Opaline, Cobalt, Cobalt Pallid Dark Green vs Olive L-R: Olive, Dark Green L-R: Dark Green, Olive L-R: Dark Green, Olive Turquoise vs Blue L-R: Blue, Turquoise (Parblue-Blue) L-R: Turquoise (Parblue-Blue), Blue Cobalt Pallid vs Mauve Pallid Cobalt Pallid L-R: Mauve Pallid, Cobalt Pallid Mauve Pallid L-R: Cobalt Pallid, Mauve Pallid Green opaline vs dark green opaline vs olive opaline L-R: Dark Green Opaline, Green Opaline, Olive Opaline L-R: Green Opaline, Olive Opaline L-R: Dark Green Opaline, Green Opaline, Olive Opaline Dark Green Opaline Olive Opaline

We know the idea of feeding your new baby parrot seems alluring, but did you know it could be risking their health? Read why: WHY we don't sell UNWEANED BIRDs A commonly asked question when it comes to buying a new parrot is "Can I buy it as a baby and feed it myself? I've heard it will bond to me better". We can understand the allure of caring for your own little baby and how that could seem beneficial to some, but unfortunately this is not only bad practice from a breeder's perspective, but also not in the bird's best interest. Let's unwrap this topic. What does the law say? The Queensland Code of Practice for Pet Shops, published by the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry (DAFF), aims to provide "advice on accepted standards for managing other animal species for sale at pet shops", and by extension we believe this is applicable to breeders also. In Section 11.1 it explains "All animals offered for sale should be weaned and fully self-sufficient (able to feed themselves unaided. Juvenile birds should be self-sufficient and fully feathered (moult permitting)." Additionally, as a professional breeder and even as parrot owners, we are subject to the Animal Care and Protection Act 2001 (you can read it here) and owe a duty of care to any animal that we are in charge of (ie. own). That means we are required to provide for any animal's needs that is in our care, including its food, water, living conditions and environment, treatment of disease/injury and that the animal is handled appropriately and correctly. what are the health risks? When young, unweaned birds are being reared by persons that don't have suitable equipment and/or expertise, you are risking both short-term and long-term health problems. Baby birds need so many aspects of their environment and husbandry "just right", to ensure they become healthy and well rounded companions for you. Hand-rearing baby parrots is a complex process with so many variables that can negatively affect the outcome of your bird, including: Temperature controlled environment Being kept in too cold or too hot of a brooder or enclosure can affect digestion function and stunt growth rates. Professional thermostat brooders which efficiently regulate temperature, can be a costly investment (from $400 up into the thousands) and unnecessary expense just for one or two birds. Incorrect formula temperature: Formula fed too hot can cause burns in the crop and inside the beak, and too cold can cause sour crop (bacterial / yeast infection). In the case of burns, a hole can perforate in the crop, allowing crop contents into the body as digestion slows and nutritional deficiencies result. Fatal if untreated. Insufficient food volume and nutrients: Baby birds can quickly starve to death in the hands of an inexperienced handler. Baby birds are used to a feeding schedule, formula type/brand, quantity and method of feeding, changes to this environment can cause developmental delays and food refusal due to stress. Professional hand-rearers know what volume of food is required for each feed, and ensure the bird is receiving enough formula and thus sufficient nutrients each day. Without this, the baby bird is at risk of developing Metabolic Bone Disease - a painful condition directly resulting from poor nutrition and a largely avoidable disease. It results from imbalances in vitamin D, calcium and other trace elements such as vitamin A. You can read more about MBD here . Incorrect feeding processes: Inhalation of formula called aspiration, where formula is fed into the trachea instead of the oesophagus. Causes infection and pneumonia, can kill within seconds in bad cases. Requires extensive vet intervention if bird is to survive, if at all. Incorrect handling processes: The crop while baby parrots grow, is very stretchy in comparison to a grown parrot's crop, in order to accommodate the larger volume of food per feed. As such, this increases the risk of aspiration (see above) if the bird is grabbed suddenly or held incorrectly, thus putting pressure on the full crop pushing the contents back into the beak and likely down the trachea. Keeping them clean: Formula feeding, whether with syringe or spoon, can be a very messy process for the untrained. It can leave baby birds caked in formula which dries like concrete, damages their feathers and potentially introduce bacteria that will make them sick. Ensuring weaning to completion: It is important that a baby bird is able to fully sustain its dietary needs on its own before it goes to its new home. This means eating a wide variety of foods independently, such as pellets, seeds, grains, fruit, vegetables and so on. Without this skill, they are at risk of starving themselves as they wait for their next feed, while the new owners may be unaware that the bird has stopped eating. Unweaned fledglings will often stop eating if they are too hungry as well. This process takes longer for some individuals. With so many things that could go wrong in the hand-rearing process, it is best to leave it to the professionals to finish raising your new bird to completion. But will it still bond to me? Yes, of course. A bird that is purchased young and allowed to integrate well into a new household will absolutely bond to you without much trouble at all. It is not necessary for them to experience being hand fed by you in their nourishment stage, in order for them to see you as their companion. A new owner who involves their new family member in the daily runnings of their life, such as playing games, watching movies, sharing snacks or doing the housework will have an eager and loyal little friend for life. What about the breeder? As a professional breeder, it is in everyone's best interest that the bird you are purchasing is of premium quality. We want to avoid you any potential heartache, veterinary bills, or drama that come from taking a bird home before it is ready. We take immense pride in the quality of our birds, and love to see them thriving and ready for their new adventures; an independent, curious and healthy bird to bring you many years of joy. Selling birds that meet our high standards ensures you receive what you are paying for, and nothing less. Our decision not to sell unweaned birds is not a reflection on any person in particular or their perceived skills or ability. It is simply our decision to safeguard the quality of birds bearing our leg rings and breeding reputation, and adhering to the legislation that keeps our birds safe. As always, your purchase includes lifetime support from us, whether it be for information on diet, behaviour, questions or even just to update and chat! You can download, print and read the following resources that have been referenced: Queensland Code of Practice for Pet Shops: DOWNLOAD Animal Care and Protection Act 2001: DOWNLOAD

green-cheeked CONURE: SPECIES PROFILE The humble green-cheek is a very popular pet bird, for good reason. We might be a little biased, but we think they are so pretty darn spectacular! The size of a cockatiel with the personality of a macaw and full of mischief and crazy antics. They are highly social, generally quiet, great with children and brilliant fliers. They are very fast learners, and can even learn to say a few words and tricks. Although they are not overly noisy, their infrequent alert calls can pose problems to people living in apartment complexes. They are more chatty than screechy. If you want a tiny shoulder companion who is always up for snuggles, a conure might just be the right pet for you! COMMON NAMES Green-cheeked conure, green-cheeked parakeet, green-cheeked parrot SCIENTIFIC NAME Pyrrhura molinae 10 inches (26cm) and between 60 and 80 grams aDULT SIZE LIFE EXPECTANCY With adequate diet, care, health, stimulation and love, your green-cheeked conure can live up to 25-30 years. However, most live only 10 years, due to owner neglect. This is why it is imperative to learn and grow our knowledge about avian care. ORIGIN AND HISTORY The Green-Cheeked Conure is native to South America, living in the forests of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. In the wild, they tend to live in large flocks of 10-20 birds. Colours and markings Green-cheeked conures are monomorphic, meaning both sexes have identical colouring. They naturally occur as 'green/natural' and 'yellowsided' in the wild, but there are a multitude of new colours that have been developed in captivity. They are characterised by their vivid colours: red tails, green and blue wing feathers, black head plumage and bare white rings around their eyes. Some colours that are bred in captivity are: pallid (cinnamon), pineapple, opaline (yellowsided), parblue (or more commonly referred to as turquoise), turquoise yellowsided, turquoise cinnamon, turquoise pineapple, and even pied, violet (single and double factor) and dilute. To learn more about the different colour mutations, read here . housing requirements Conures, by nature, are very inquisitive, playful parrots. They need to have adequate room to play, forage, fly/flap and explore their surroundings. For birds, this is usually a cage or enclosure, which becomes your bird's "safe place". Their cage should provide sufficient room to freely spread both wings. Choose the largest cage you can afford and that will fit well in your space. A cage recommended to house a green-cheeked conure should be at the very least 60x60x60cm, but recommended 80x90x55cm with between 15-19mm wide bar spacing. A cage with a playtops and doors with locking mechanisms are an advantage. Select natural branches to use as perches, as these provide different thicknesses, textures and enrichment to promote foot health. Conures love to chew and should be given ample toys for the sole purpose of destroying and keeping them occupied. We purchase all our toys from Unique Beaks Handmade Bird Toys which are made with bird-safe natural dyes, stainless steel, plastic, wood and accessories. You can find them on Facebook here. Items such as pony beads, paddlepop sticks, paper, untreated pine, paper straws, wax-free cupcake liners, and finger traps make great toys for inquisitive beaks to shred. Some metals, such as galvanised steel, lead, and zinc can cause metal poisoning, so it is best to use stainless steel wherever possible. Feeding your conure a balanced, nutritionally dense, varied diet is imperative to maintaining healthy physical and mental wellbeing. This should consist of a base diet of formulated pellets, low-fat seeds, sprouted seed, vegetables and a small amount of fruit. For more details on diet and nutrition for your parrot, read about it here. diet and nutrition common health problems Conures are known to be susceptible to feather plucking. This could have medical causes, or it could be contributed by boredom, or lack of mental stimulation (handling, variation in routine, not enough/any toys). Annual (or more often if required) checkups are highly advised to ensure your parrot is in best health, as diagnosis and treatment of any disease or illness can be given earlier rather than later. Diseases known to affect conures include: Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD: An incurable viral disease. Symptoms: regurgitation, crop impaction, poor appetite, weight loss, weakness, muscle wastage), Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease. (PBFD: An incurable, contagious viral disease which attacks feather follicles, beak and claw tissue. Symptoms: damaged and deformed feathers, claws and beak, cracking and peeling of the outer layers of the claws and beak, lethargy, vomiting/diarrhoea) Beak malocclusion (Misaligned beak ie. scissor beak. Can be caused by beak injury/trauma. Symptoms: beak not lining up properly when closed) Aspergillosis (A sickness from exposure to mould spores. Symptoms: severe difficulty breathing, decreased/loss of appetite, frequent drinking and urination, cyanosis (a bluish coloration of mucous membranes and/or skin), sudden death) Here are some avian vets in South East Queensland whom we have good dealings with and feel confident enough to recommend. There are others in the southern corner, however we would not recommend them. THE EXOTICS VET Dr. Vanessa Harkess BVSC (Hons I) MANZCVS (Avian Health) 22 Ashmole Road, Redcliffe QLD Phone: (07) 3060 2112 Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 5pm, Closed Sunday and Monday https://theexoticsvet.com/ BRISBANE BIRD VET Dr. Adrian Gallagher BVSC (Hons) MANZCVS (Avian Health) 248 Hamilton Rd, Chermside QLD Phone: (07) 3359 2233 Hours: Monday, Wednesday, Friday 9am to 5pm, Tuesday and Thursday until 7pm, Weekends closed https://brisbanebirdvet.com.au/ BRISBANE BIRD & EXOTICS VETERINARY SERVICE Dr. Deborah Monks BVSc (Hons), Cert Zoo Med (RCVS), ECZM Diplomate (Avian Medicine), FANZCVS (Avian Medicine and Surgery) 191 Cornwall Street, Greenslopes, QLD Phone: (07) 3217 3533 Hours: Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6:00pm, Saturday 8:30am to 12:00pm, Closed Sundays & Public Holidays https://bbevs.com.au/

aviary birds for sale We specialise in premium colour mutations for both breeding purposes and hand raised companions. Our aviary birds are either DNA or nest sexed and come with DNA certificate if applicable, information on genetic parentage, known and possible splits and any available breeding history. Viewing of birds is by appointment only, which can be made through our contact page, Facebook page or calling 0423 470 041 . All prices are subject to change at our discretion, dependant on availability and market pricing, and our p rices are non-negotiable with the exception of multiple pairs. Freight is available to most major airports via Virgin Australia and Qantas, to read more about what is involved in air freighting, read here. BIRD SALES None planned at this stage. Last Updated: 29th August 2026 green cheeked conures 2025 DF Violet Turquoise Cinnamon hen $750 each. quakers ("/" denotes split) All DNA cards available unless indicated otherwise. Pairs Can make up unrelated pairs from the following singles Single Cocks ❁ 2020 Blue / Pallid $350 ★ 2020 Dark Green / Pallid / Blue. Proven breeder $450 2021 Blue / Opaline *not DNA'd, but proven breeder $350 ★ 2022 Green / Pallid / Blue $350 ★ 2022 Green Pallidino / Blue *not DNA'd, but is a pallidino which can only be male. $800 ♦ 2022 Blue / Pallid / Opaline. Proven breeder, POI ❁ 2022 Cobalt / Pallid $450 ★ 2022 Cobalt / Pallid / poss Opaline $450 ❁ 2022 Cobalt Pallid $800 ★ 2023 Cobalt Pallid $800 ★★ 2023 Green Pallid / Blue $600 ★ 2023 Dark Green Opaline / Blue $800 ★ 2024 Green / Opaline / Blue $350 Single Hens ★ 2022 Dark Green Pallid / poss Blue. Proven breeder $800 ★ 2023 Dark Green Opaline / Blue $800 ★ 2023 Olive Opaline / Blue $900 ★★ 2023 Cobalt Pallid $800 ♦ 2024 Blue Opaline $600 Line Key: ★ BP ★★ M ❁ CP ♦ F

Are you thinking of getting a new parrot? Not sure what is involved and what you need? We've got you covered. Is a parrot the right pet for you? Maybe you saw a cute bird at a pet shop, or in a video, and you were wowed by its gorgeous colours and playful demeanor. Or maybe you have met a bird of someone elses' and decided you wanted one of that species, too. However, each bird is an individual, and they often differ in quality from breeder to breeder, so know that you may not get a bird that behaves the same way as another without significant effort and training on your part, if at all. Patience Parrots are often considered 'starter' pets, especially for kids. There are many misconceptions when it comes to correctly managing a parrots' physical and mental health, and it can sometimes lead to impulse purchases without understanding the whole scope of their care. Are you thinking of adding a new feathered member to your family? Take some time to consider the following points to help you make an educated decision: biting Are you able to cope with being bitten? One thing that is common among all parrots is that they all bite. It is unreasonable to assume that you will never get bitten by your parrot, and new owners need to understand that they will at some point get bitten by their bird no matter how tame they are. Oftentimes owners misread the body language and miss subtle clues that indicate that the parrot is feeling threatened, is upset, in pain, or just not liking the situation. We may be intimidated by the size of their beak, and this is relayed to the bird causing fear induced behaviours like biting. Time Do you have enough time to dedicate to your bird every day? Parrots are typically a socially dependant and needy pet, and require several hours per day of interaction outside the cage. This may be simply sitting on your shoulder as you do the meal preparation, fold laundry, working on the computer or vacuuming the floors. To a bird, you are an integral part of their 'flock', and extended separation from you can cause them significant stress and anxiety. Mess Are you a neat freak? Can you deal with a high level of mess? Parrots make quite the mess: they flick their food all over the walls, spill it on the floor, and shred their toys into tiny pieces. They dump food in their water (conures are especially renowned for being "pellet dunkers" and even throw their dishes off the wall of their cage. And then there's the poop; they poop on their perches, your couch, your floor or any conceivable surface. Are you prepared to clean out their cage tray every week? You will also need to scrub down the cage once a month and replace soiled and shredded perches as required. Noise Do you hate noise? It is true that smaller birds make less noise, but that does not mean that they won't make any noise. Parrots are not a pet that is suitable for most people, they do screech and communicate in an audible way. The more parrots you have, the more noise they seem to generate. Your parrot may call for you if you leave the room without them, when they have been left alone for extended times, in the morning and evening (flock calling) and even when they drop a toy that they wanted. Poorly socialised birds will often screech excessively when things don't go their way, out of fear, or when they are trying to get your attention. It is their way of speaking to us and their fellow flock mates, and communicating their needs. parrot's needs It is important to know what you need to provide for your bird for their optimal health, and to be continually improving on that knowledge. FRESH WATER DAILY Are you prepared to change their water bowl every single day? The general rule is, if you wouldn't put it in a cup and give it to your child, it's not good enough for your parrot. This might mean changing it several times a day if they tend to soil their water dish with food or other debris. FRESH FOOD Are you able to provide them fresh food multiple times a week? In the wild, our parrots' ancestors soar the sky and explore vast areas of land each day to find the food they require for the day. This natural behaviour shows us many aspects to how birds feed: they have to find it (flying around), work for it (ripping open seed pods, stripping trees and plants), and they don't eat the same thing every single meal for every day. When we consider what is most commonly supplied to captive parrots, it simply doesn't provide the same variety and stimulation they need. To meet their nutritional needs, it is necessary for us to serve our parrots fresh vegetables, at least every 2-3 days, if not every day. Are you able to fit this into your schedule to cut up food, or add to your budget each week? TOYS Are you prepared to purchase new toys regularly for your bird, or to make them yourself? Shreddable and interactable toys are very important for your birds mental health, especially if they remain caged for long periods during the day. It can be frustrating if your bird is destroying their toys and chewing them to toothpicks, leaving you feeling like you have wasted your money, it couldn't be more the opposite. The more time your parrot spends chewing specifically designated items is less time they could potentially be chewing themselves. A bird that is unfulfilled in its natural desire to chew, shred and destroy, will ultimately try to exhibit that behaviour in its only available avenue: their own body. Feather plucking, or self mutilation, can be a serious behavioural issue and can intrench in habits that are not so easy to correct. MAINTENANCE If you decide to have a non-flighted bird, are you able to trim their wings yourself correctly, or do you have a service available to do this for you? Their nails will also require routine trimming, usually once a month that needs to be accounted for also. Space Where will your bird's cage be kept at your home? Is there space to place it where the birds can be a part of the home, not just a dark corner in the back of the house? Where will you store their food, accessories, spare toys? Will they have two cages, one inside and one outside, and if so what parameters do can you implement to ensure they cannot escape? A bird cage (or two) is not a glamorous Pinterest-ready addition to a home, accompanied by the mess, so if this is something that is particularly important to you, a parrot may not be the right pet for you. The Right Kind Have you researched different species of parrots to narrow down which will suit your social and financial needs? Not all parrots are alike, and they vary widely from species to species. Some are clingy, some are loud, some will bond exclusively to one person. Some are more hormonal than others, some have different dietary needs. Take the time to work out which species' fits best for you. Some people think a bird that is super clingy, crawls on the keyboard while you type, raids your cereal bowl and hangs off your hair is the perfect bird, but to others they prefer a calmer natured parrot. Cost The true purchase price of a parrot is much more expensive than simply the price of the bird itself. Take a second to count the cost of the 'world' that you will create by having them: bird purchase price, plus cage, plus food, plus toys, plus accessories, plus bird stand, plus annual veterinary checkups or appointments should anything go wrong or even pet insurance. The funds required can often stack up into the thousands. Nothing lasts forever; food gets eaten, toys get destroyed, and cages start to flake, rust and deteriorate. These things will need to be replaced in varying intervals. Should your bird become ill and require treatment, where is your nearest veterinarian that specialises in birds? What first aid products need to be on hand for emergencies? Children If you have children in the home, this can add insurmountable challenges to owning a parrot. Often children have difficulty reading bird body language which leads them to be bitten or stalked/chased more often. Kids don't handle well to bites, they react in a way which can then panic the bird, especially when they were most likely bitten out of fear, this will compound the problem and can make them fearful of humans in general. Children move much more quickly and spontaneously than adults, which makes it difficult for the parrot to read and gauge the child. They are also more likely to taunt and tease a parrot, in some kind of intended "play", which sends mixed threat signals to your parrot. It is your responsibility to educate and teach with your children about caring for birds and interacting with them in an appropriate way. Allergies Sometimes people are allergic to dander; the white powdery substance that covers the new feathers. As birds preen themselves it flakes off becoming airborne, triggering allergic or similar reactions to that from cat and dog allergies. Birds that are particularly 'dusty' are cockatiels, cockatoos and African Grey parrots. Allowing your bird to bathe daily will help to curb the amount of dander, but there are some bird species that are considered 'hypoallergenic'. These include: budgerigars, Eclectus parrots and Pionus parrots. Long Term Commitment And saving the best for last, this would have to be the most important question to consider of all: Are you prepared for a long term commitment? Most parrots live upwards of 20 to 30 years, and some even as long as 50 to 70 years. While parrots are the third most common pet owned in the world, they are the most common REHOMED pet. When you choose to add a parrot to your family, you are making the conscious decision to provide for all the needs of that bird for the rest of its natural life, not just until you get sick of them or fail to have time for them anymore. It pains me to see the countless ads on Facebook or Gumtree stating: "Don't have time for these anymore" or "Unwanted Christmas/birthday gift" or "Need gone now". Where is the commitment to these birds that they deserve, what was promised to them when they were purchased? Just like puppies and kittens, parrots tend to go through a "terrible twos" cocktail of hormones and boundary-pushing behaviour which needs to be managed and trained. So many birds are surrendered to rescues and sanctuaries for no fault of their own, or for behaviour that may have been avoided on the part of a careless owner. Consider where you are at in your life stages at this moment and in the coming years. Are you about to go off to university? Move house? Get married? Are you of mature age and will a parrot outlive you? Where are your priorities and how will a parrot fit in to your life should things change? What will happen if you were to fall ill, or even pass away; is there someone that is prepared to care for or even take on your bird? Animals are not a possession to be discarded when it becomes inconvenient. So why own a parrot at all? With all the negatives above, one might wonder what point there is to even owning a bird at all. INTELLIGENCE From the largest macaw down to the smallest budgerigar, we are continually learning how intricately intelligent these creatures can be. They are easy to teach tricks, they can talk/mimic and even learn to navigate simple problem solving activities, all with a brain as minute as a pea. COMPANIONSHIP A parrot naturally lives its life as part of a flock, and when we share our home with them, we become an integral member of that flock with them. They bond to us, creating a beautiful connection of understanding, trust and respect. LESS MAINTENANCE Compared to dogs and cats, birds take up significantly less space. They don't require a large backyard, a weekly bath appointment or daily walk around the block. Instead, a monthly toenail trim and twice weekly spritz with a misting bottle is sufficient, if they don't already bathe in their water dish. On the most part, parrots take care of all their grooming needs. LIFESPAN Most of us have, or will in the future, experienced the deep pain of losing a beloved pet. So why not choose a companion that will live in excess of 20, 30 or even 60 years with you? With adequate care and nutrition, there is no reason why your feathered friend can remain by your side for a large portion of your life.

BIRDS FOR SALE NAIL & Beak TRIMMING Nail clipping of parrots is simple, but can be quite a daunting task for an owner. Under normal circumstances, your bird generally won't require much more than light trim to remove the fine point. Overgrown nails that don't get worn down on their natural perches and pumice perches may need a little extra taken off to ensure the nail quick isn't extending too far into the length of the nail, and with regular We are able to clip your birds' nails Cost: $5 each bird https://birdtricksstore.com/blogs/birdtricks-blog/do-you-file-or-clip-your-bird-s-nails?srsltid=AfmBOorQpaXaKSks-i1i92sxKbiqqRardtg6QySlEwSv2trOSoVXkbI5 https://www.unusualpetvets.com.au/services/nail-clipping/ https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/beak-and-nail-care-in-birds

the importance of self care As owners of companion parrots it is our responsibility and privilege to facilitate expression of their natural behaviours like bathing, foraging, socialising and so much more. A bird in captivity for the most part relies on us to encourage and provide the tools they need to maintain peak health in the best way possible. If the conditions in our homes or facilities are not sufficient, their quality of life suffers as it affects both their mental and physical well-being. Jump to: Bathing Sunshine, Vitamin D, Calcium and Supplement Lighting Nail Trimming Moulting and Preening Beak and Foot Health Bathing Why Is Bathing Important? Allowing opportunity for your parrot to bathe in clean water is not only enjoyable to watch but essential for their health for so many reasons! Feather Maintenance - Bathing helps them to reset their feathers, removing residual dust, dirt, food and oils from being handled. In turn, this helps their feathers to hold heat better and aligned properly for efficient flight Thermoregulation - Birds are not able to cool themselves down by sweating, so they raise their wings from their body and pant. By bathing in water, they are able to bring their body temperature down to safer levels Moulting - It helps them to loosen the keratin sheaths that come through on new feathers, making it easier for them to preen and feel more comfortable Socialisation - Often bathing is a group sport: we see this a lot with our babies - one jumps in for a bath and all of a sudden all their friends are in there too! In the wild, they would spend their time preening eachother after a bathing session Enrichment - They also really just love to have a bath, and find it fun! Oil Distribution - When birds heavily preen after a bath, they are distributing oil from their preen gland (uropygial gland) located on their rump above their tail feathers. This oil is important for water resistance Parasite Control - This is more relevant to wild birds, but still a fascinating mechanism to include! What is Bathing Behaviour? It is important to establish what is and isn't typical bathing behaviour that we can observe, and when to pull back on our encouragement. By c reating phrases like "want a bath?" or "come for a bath!" we can build an association that the word bath means they get to experience the water. This simplifies the communication between you and your bird, and also helps to form a routine of sorts that they can come to love and predict. By reading their body language, we can usually see an indication of how comfortable they are feeling, and misjudging or ignoring certain signs can very easily cause sickness, injury or even death. A willing participant will likely vocalise in excitement and rush to investigate whatever you're holding. With a new container or if they haven't bathed before, it is natural that they would be weary or even frightened; so go slowly and don't push them to bathe if they are showing hesitation. Indicators to watch for include: Yes: Feathers fluffed out, pacing back and forth to get into the container, excited Yes: Dipping head in and under the water, wings out, body ruffling Yes: Feathers fluffed out, wings outstretched and often head down if misted with a sprayer bottle No: Head tipped up, repeated blinking and sneezing No: Not moving around in the water, just standing still or facing in a corner These two videos (ems_birds , morgansbirbs ) highlight the stark difference between what abnormal bathing looks like versus a normal, confident parrot. Bathing in a dish or tray Most conures and quakers love to "swim" in a shallow container or tray. Use a low-sided dish filled 2-4cm deep with cool water that they are able to climb in and out of without help. All that flapping will make quite a mess, so pop your container on a towel or puppy pee pad to catch the excess water. You can use really any plastic or ceramic dish or container, such as a Tupperware/Decor/Sistema food container, pet bowls, shallow ceramic bowls or dishes, or even designated electronic bird baths which cycle the water through a tap. We have listed a few options at the bottom of this section. The trickling sound of water is quick to set off their instincts to bathe, so be mindful when washing dishes that they can't jump into hot water. We keep a small Decor container on the kitchen sink to fill up when we let our birds out, that they have learned is just for them. A swish of the hand in the water to entice them to come investigate, especially when using a new container, is usually enough to provoke their curiosity. Bathing by a mister bottle Some parrots like cockatoos, cockatiels and Bourke's prefer to be misted, rather than dunk themselves under the water. Use a large bottle with spray nozzle, that hasn't been used previously for any chemicals. These kinds of spray bottles are cheaply found in Woolworths or Bunnings, so a new and dedicated bottle really is best. Label it clearly to avoid any mishaps, so it is only used for bird bathing purposes. Fill the bottle with cool water and spray on a fine mist setting; and if they are in the mood for a bath, should open out their wings and fluff out their feathers to allow the water to mist in. Bathing Inside the Cage Your parrot might like to bath inside their cage in their water dish, even if you think they might not fit inside it! Make sure that you are changing out their water daily, or provide a second larger container they might prefer to bath in instead. I f they are bathing inside their cage you will have to be mindful to clean out the bottom tray regularly, as the dropped food and faeces sitting in water will mould quickly, start to smell and attract flies, ants and other bugs. Going into the Shower Another option is bringing them into the bathroom to shower with us, however this may not be received as eagerly as you might think. Our showers have forceful jets and create a lot of noise, making it something that they are naturally fearful of instead of curious. You should never place your bird into the bottom of the shower; the water pressure is too strong and floods their little bodies with water. It is extremely dangerous and potentially fatal when they end up with water in their nostrils and into their air sacs (a death sentence), essentially "waterboarding" your parrot. Instead, take them at their own pace when introducing them to your showering routine. They might like to sit on the curtain rail, glass panel or shelf, simply enjoying the increased humidity and proximity to you. Our conure loves to sit on the top of the shower head, tapping his reflection with his beak and muttering away to himself. Don't use any shampoo, bodywash, facewash, toothpaste etc within reach of your bird, as that can cause poisoning if they ingest it, get it in their eyes or get it on their feathers and ingest later via preening. Water is more than enough to clean your birds feathers, and the soft mist being reflected onto them from the walls or our body. It is important to remember that even if it doesn't meet our expectation of how we believe they should bathe, it can still be a very enriching experience to shower with us. Move slowly, speak calmly and be patient while teaching them that they can trust us to keep them safe in such a vulnerable position. Drying off If you've ever seen a parrot having a bath, it really is quite the sight to behold! Quite similar to a waterlogged rat with wings, honestly! After a vigorous self-dunking, they will be dripping with water and won't be able to fly very well. In this stage they are a bit more vulnerable and likely to hurt themselves if they try to take off. It is best to pop them on a play stand or back in their cage to dry off, and make sure that the ambient temperature isn't too cold for them. It is normal for them to shiver, this mechanism is just their body producing the body heat which expands out their feathers to dry off faster. However, they should still be kept warm and out of draughts. You might be tempted to think you need to dry them off with a hairdryer, but it really isn't necessary. A hairdryer can easily burn or scare them, so can be too risky. As they dry off naturally, they will busy themselves preening and realigning all their feathers. Some products we recommend as a designated indoor parrot bath: SENSORY PLAY TRAY CERAMIC PET BOWL ELECTRONIC BIRD BATH ACRYLIC BIRD BATH Sunshine and UV lighting Why is Sunlight Important? While the main benefit of sunlight (ultraviolet light) is to stimulate Vitamin D production, it also has many other benefits (for birds and humans, alike!) like regulating sleep cycles and mood, boosting immune function, lowering blood pressure and killing off potential bacteria and pathogens which cause infections. Modern homes with darkened windows can make it challenging to ensure your parrot is receiving adequate vitamin D to metabolise the calcium they consume in their diet. As they absorb sunlight their body then converts it to a useable form within the liver and kidneys. Unfortunately, glass windows block most of the sun's UVB rays, but still allows 45-75% UVA rays to pass through. The best way to absorb Vitamin D and UV rays is always going to be through direct sunlight. What is Vitamin D? Vitamin D is a vitamin that is absorbed in sunlight through the skin; an essential process which regulates calcium production and immune function. It acts like a hormone which helps cells and organs to function properly, and is required to absorb other nutrients which are essential for growing and maintaining healthy bones (such as phosphorous and calcium). Without a healthy level of Vitamin D and calcium, your parrots bones can become weak and brittle, and start negatively affecting their blood health too (red blood cells are produced in the red bone marrow, liver and spleen). Symptoms of Vitamin D Deficiency Vitamin D deficiency is a very serious issue which should be dealt with promptly before it becomes potentially fatal. Some symptoms that may indicate your bird is not getting enough Vitamin D include weak bones (increased risk of fractures and subsequent difficulty healing), flakey or damaged beaks, reduced feather quality (thin, dull), difficulty perching, lethargy and unwillingness to explore their cage, and thinner shelled eggs in hens. In severe cases there is risk of paralysis and death. What is Calcium? When we consider calcium, we often think of bones and teeth. But calcium also plays an important role in many other bodily functions as well, like contracting muscles and making sure blood vessels contract properly. While most of a parrot's calcium is stored within the skeletal long bones, a small amount is also found in the bloodstream and muscles. Birds generally have a higher calcium percentage found in the muscles compared to mammals to account for the need for flight and their higher metabolism. Sources of calcium include supplements (liquid or powder, see below for product recommendations), pumice perches (chalky, not sandpaper ones), dark leafy green vegetables (such as kale, spinach, mustard greens, pak choy), cuttlefish bones and fortified pellets. However, you can be providing enough dietary calcium but still be causing a deficiency if your parrot does not have access to sunlight and are able to metabolise the calcium they have consumed. Prevention is most definitely better than the cure. Symptoms of Calcium Deficiency When we think of calcium deficiency, two things often come to mind: egg binding and osteoporosis (break down of internal bone structure reducing bone density). It presents itself in systems related to bone and muscle function: issues with flight and coordination, weakness and abnormality in perching stance, seizures and altered mood (aggressive behaviour). A hen which is egg bound lacks the appropriate level of calcium in the muscles to contract and expel the egg, and if not treated urgently will lead to death quickly. UVB/UVA/Full Spectrum Lighting Kits In places that have less access to natural sunlight, like longer winters or inclement weather, another option is to use Full Spectrum UV Bird Lighting, like Arcadia. They work by emitting UVA and UVB rays which can be absorbed by your bird through the cage, however they are not as strong as natural sunlight. There is conflicting information online as to the required distance from light to bird to actually be making enough of a difference. There are also reports of the bright lighting causing cataracts in birds as well, which proves this new innovation requires a lot more research before committing to it. The best solution to this issue is simply to schedule time into your life to give your bird access to natural sunlight each week. Walks and Outdoor Time Ideally, your parrot should receive a minimum of 15 minutes of direct outdoor sunlight 3 times a week. If worked into your routine it can provide a great opportunity for bonding and trust building. It is important not to leave them unattended outdoors without adequate protection from predators (hawks and butcherbirds will pull them through the cage bars, snakes, etc), but here are some ideas for getting more sunshine with your bird: Sitting outside in the morning/afternoon in a small carry cage, paired with a tasty snack while you have your cuppa Going for a walk outside in a backpack (cloth ones are best, that aren't darkened), or even sitting in a small cage while you are in the garden An outdoor aviary or patio aviary - be mindful of transfers to avoid escapes or consider adding a double door system (examples: VidaXL , EasyShed , AviOne , VidaXL etc) An outdoor space, either stand alone or enclosed into an existing structure like a patio or verandah (eg: Catnets , I would recommend the reinforced stainless steel version) Small aviary or cage attached to side of the house with window access, easy to pop bird through safely, or one of the aviary systems above secured to the house exit so you can sit in there with them (easy to purchase materials like welded sheet mesh from Bunnings ) Wheeling a cage outside - secure all doors with clips, remove external feeders like Seed Mates/acrylic box feeders and water baths, and never leave unattended Supplements We recommend you add a supplement once or twice a week to your bird's diet, to ensure you are covering the dietary need for vitamin D and calcium. These can be found in liquid or powder form, and some have additional vitamins and minerals which are a great supplement to a varied diet. Below are some easily obtainable products: Passwell Liquid Gold (liquid) Dosage: 20mL/L in drinking water, 40mL/kg of soaked seed or soft food, direct to beak dose 0.2mL/100g body weight (0.14mL for conures or 0.19mL for quakers Active Ingredients: Calcium (Ca2+) 33g/L, Magnesium (Mg2+) 1.6g/L, Manganese (Mn2+) 100mg/L, Vitamin D3 25000iu/L, Lutein 50mg/L Vetafarm Soluvite D (powder) Dosage in water: 4g into 40mL of warm water (30°C – 40°C), stir well to dissolve. Then add the mixed 40mL solution to 360mL of drinking water. Prepared water should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Use as the sole source of water and prepare fresh solution daily. Dosage in food: Sprinkle 4g of Soluvite D onto 4 cups of food and combine well. Active Ingredients: Vitamin A 1,000,000 IU, Vitamin D3 250,000 IU, Vitamin E 2,500 IU, Vitamin K 2,000mg, Niacin 5,000mg, Pantothenic Acid 1,242mg, Riboflavin 1,200mg, Thiamine 470mg, Pyridoxine 400mg, Cyanocobalamin (B12) 5mg, Folic Acid 225mg, Choline Bitartrate 40mg, Biotin 10mg, Iodine 200mg Vetafarm Calcivet (liquid) Dosage: 5mL per 250mL water (1 tsp per cup), 5mL/1 cup soaked seed or soft food, direct to beak 0.2mL (4 drops) per 100g body weight Active Ingredients: Calcium 33g, Vitamin D3 25,000 IU Vetafarm D Nutrical (powder) Use twice weekly for maintenance and daily during breeding. Introductory Dosage: Start with a dose of 5g per kg of feed and gradually increase to 20g over 6 feeds. Maintenance Dosage: Add 20g per kg of food to boost active calcium levels. Active Ingredients: 310mg Calcium (31%), Vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, B12, C, D3, and E, Phosphorus, Sodium, Iodine, Potassium, Iron, Cobalt, Copper, Magnesium and Manganese. Calcivite Plus (liquid) Dosage: 5–10ml per 1L of drinking water Active Ingredients: Calcium as Calcium proteinate 33g/1L, Vitamin D3 25,000 IU/L, Magnesium Sulphate 0.5g/1L nail Trimming Baby birds have needle sharp points on their toenails to help them perch, and not fall and injure themselves, but this means we end up with our hands, shoulders and arms spotted in tiny scratches. Clipping their toenails at home is relatively easy, provided you take the time to learn the anatomy of the nail to avoid causing injury. Majority of the nail length is actually vascularised (meaning blood-filled) tissue, with a plethora of nerves surrounded in a hard keratin coating. The inner section with blood and nerve endings is called the quick , and if the nail is trimmed too short, this causes pain and profuse bleeding that can be hard to get under control. Natural branches and pumice perches are a good addition to keeping the nail tips a little blunter, but avoid using any products with sandpaper or grit-style perches or perch covers. These are far too abrasive for their feet, and cause microcuts leading to sores and infection. Ultimately, being able to care for your bird's toenails at home with simple tools is a fantastic skill to have. How do I know when its time to trim? As the nail grows longer, the curvature of the tip will increase, and if left to continue downwards we start to see it hindering their ability to walk on flat surfaces with correct posture. With the foot flat on a bench or table, you will be able to see if each digit is able to maintain flat contact with the table. If the tip of the nail is starting to pull the end of the toe up and away from the surface and they are walking on the nail tip, they are overdue for a nail trim. We recommend including nail trims as part of your regular training rotation to continue desensitisation and create a more willing participant without fear or aggression. Even monthly trim sessions of just a few minutes to remove the tiniest sharp point will do well for keeping them familiar with the process, as well as conditioning them for any vet visits where handling is required. How do I trim nails? There are a handful of different tools you can use to trim toe nails to suit your comfort level, and your ability to safely hold them while trimming. It might be useful to have a second set of hands for securing the bird so you can focus just on clipping each nail. When holding them, be mindful not to press on their chest, abdomen or throat or you will risk suffocating them with too tight a grip. You can use a towel to restrain them and partially cover their head if needed. You can use: Emery board / nail file (good for more frequent maintenance, taking a small amount at a time) Nail clippers (regular manicure type, or smaller baby clippers) Cat claw clippers (smaller than dog clippers) Dremel tool with small sanding wheels (advanced, definitely recruit a friend to help you, more suited to larger birds like macaws) Make sure your clippers are sharp, and able to take a clean slice; if you need two or three goes at it, throw them away and use a new set. Blunt clippers crush the nail tip rather than cutting across it, leaving microcracks that run vertically up the nail and increase the risk of injury or infection. Take your time, making small clips and assessing as you go so that you don't cut too high into the quick. If the toenail starts to bleed, you have cut too high into the blood supply. Do not panic, and do not let the bird fly around the room. As with humans, a higher heart rate (from flying) will pump the blood out faster. Keep your bird calm and still, then apply and hold firm pressure with a clean tissue, and check after 5 minutes to see if the nail has coagulated and stopped bleeding. If it has, great job. If it hasn't, you will need to add either corn flour, styptic powder or gel liberally. These work by absorbing the moisture, drying out the wound and constricting the blood vessels in that area. Styptic powder is available online from many places such as iHerb, Amazon, eBay or grooming supply stores . I find the powder more effective than the gel, but corn flour (or even regular flour) works quite well if you don't have styptic powder on hand. To apply the corn flour or styptic powder, take a decent pinch and hold it firmly on the nail. Hold for 5-10 minutes, and check again. You might need to repeat and hold again, sometimes with a larger bleed it may need to be held for upwards of an hour. However, if you cannot stop the bleeding after an hour of holding pressure, or your bird is losing a significant amount of blood, please visit an emergency vet. Moulting Moulting is a natural process that your parrot will experience usually twice a year, where they will drop their old feathers and new ones grow in their place. This process will take from a few weeks to up to a few months, losing a few at a time from each area of the body to avoid bald patches and be still able to fly capably. (Fun fact: did you know that as the flight feathers moult, the matching flights from both wings are lost at the same time?) You will notice a lot more 'fluffies' on the floor than usual, blowing about the house and they'll look a bit rough and worse for wear. As the older, dull and worn feathers are replaced by new, shiny straight ones, they will spend more time preening themselves than they usually do. The new feathers are coated in a white, waxy keratin casing called a feather sheath. A bird in active moult will have little white "lines" poking through their regular feathers, and they will be a lot dustier. The new feather filaments are enclosed with a blood supply which nourishes the developing feather for a few weeks. As the feather grows out to the final length, the outer keratin coating flakes off as they preen themselves. How often do they moult? From my experience, they will usually go through two moults a year; in autumn and spring. One is usually a larger moult and one smaller. Babies tend to go through their first moult at about 4.5-5 months old. What can I do to help them? Bathing Bathing is a great way to assist your bird through their moult, by continuing to offer bathing opportunities and even time in the steamy bathroom with increased humidity. If the pin feather sheaths become too dry, it can cause a deformity as the feather struggles to uncurl and develop normally and will require to be removed. Help With Pinnies The pin feathers on the back of their neck and on top of their head are tough for them to reach themselves, and some birds might appreciate some gentle human assistance, but some may not. Read your bird's body language and be prepared to back off if they start to get a bit cranky. Pin feathers are uncomfortable and itchy for them, so don't be alarmed if your parrot seems a bit cranky or moody while they go through a moult. Even if your normally snuggly and smoochy bird is temporarily avoiding your touch, try not to take it personally. If they do let you touch their pin feathers, you can carefully crack the casing between your fingernails or fingertips. Move slowly and try to stay only at the tips, as the base may still have a connected blood supply and cause pain or bleeding if preened too low on the shaft. Extra Care and Comfort A highly nutritious diet and plenty of rest will do wonders to assist your bird through their moult, and of course plenty of patience. Moulting can be quite a stressful experience for them, so offer more quiet time (you may like to partially cover the cage for some of the day, or move their cage to a less busy part of the house) to help them feel more comfortable. A high quality pellet (we recommend Hagans Tropican Lifetime 2mm) combined with a little extra protein (eg. soaked/sprouted seeds, legumes and grains, cooked quinoa, hemp seeds, chia seeds, and small amounts of boiled eggs) and a vitamin and mineral supplement will provide their little bodies with the nutrients they need to regrow their plumage and feel themselves again. Some birds may also feel less inclined to venture out of the cage as much as they usually do, so follow their lead and be a little less "hands on" if that is what they prefer at this time. Switch up their cage with some new branches to chew and toys to play with, and even some leafy, native foliage to keep them occupied. When to be concerned A healthy parrot should have no problems with regular preening, moult preening and general feather maintenance (spreading the natural oils from their preen gland through their feathers). If they are not preening, this could indicate an underlying issue that will likely require a veterinary check up to determine the cause. Issues with diet (too high fat, not balanced), internal disease (kidney or liver damage), or even pain or mobility issues such as arthritis or injury, could all contribute to abnormal feather condition or decreased preening behaviour. BEAK & Foot HEALTH A parrot's beak naturally grows "from the inside, out", down to the tip. It is made up of layers of keratin (the same as their toenails and feather sheaths) and can take on a flaky appearance. This is completely normal, and in some species it is more obvious, like our galah George! With aid from natural branches, pumice perches and probably some of your furniture, they usually keep their beak groomed on their own without any intervention from us. If you do notice that the tip of their beak is becoming overgrown or longer than usual, it might be time to start analysing their diet or other factors with a veterinary check up, as this could also indicate an underlying health issue. Similarly, the skin on their feet should be in good condition from regular bathing and grooming activities, and rarely need intervention from us. If you would like to add a foot treatment service to your 'monthly birdie mani-pedi', you can use raw coconut oil to massage into their feet and beak. You only need to use a miniscule amount (about a drop's worth) and avoid getting it on their feathers, as this can encourage overpreening in that area and potentially damage to the feathers, or initiate a self-mutilating type of behaviour. We have used this high potency Vitamin E oil (Invite E Vitamin E brand, in a 30ml tube from the chemist) at veterinary recommendation to massage into one of our bird's arthritic feet.

It's a nerve-wracking time bringing a new parrot home for the first time. Make sure you're prepared with our easy step-by-step guide. tRAINING here BARRONS 20 here BARRONS 5 here ensure they are weaned here research what traits you desire Quakers page 70 (Barrons guide) bathing here

external resources Parrot Stars Podcast Alexis manages Parrot Stars; a pet store located in Illinois, USA. They have an invaluable podcast on subjects such as parrot care, nutrition, training, behavior, conservation and preservation. Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/6rK0MrjsWL3mFqFbMwiXTd YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLq8iAEDALblCybxoAVUUn-sbFf2IwV_DY Flock Talk Flock Talk is a positive reinforcement based trainer based in Canada with fantastic training videos. YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@FlockTalk/playlists Instagram: instagram.com/flock.talks Parrot Life Parrot Life is a team of avian behavioural consultants based in Australia, providing in home and video consultations, courses, seminars and workshops. Website: www.parrotlife.com.au bird tricks Dave and Jamieleigh Womach are experienced parrot trainers based in Idaho, USA. They have many video playlists full of information on training, feeding systems, stationing, behavioural solutions and species specific content. Website: www.birdtricksstore.com/ YouTube: www.youtube.com/@BirdTricks/playlists

Handraised Birds for Sale Our birds We take great pride in providing high quality, companion parrots for all ages and the exceptional support and guidance you need. Viewing of birds is by appointment only, which can be made through our contact page, Facebook page or calling 0423 470 041 . We breed conures, quakers and Bourke's Parrots for both pets and aviary breeding, and specialise in premium colour mutations with disposition, conformation and colour quality our priority. If you are looking for a bird which is not yet available, send me a message on Facebook or visit our Facebook page for up-to-date pictures and news. A non-refundable $100 deposit is required per bird to secure your bird prior to weaning and will receive a receipt as proof of payment. You are welcome to pay off your bird/s in installments with a receipt for each payment to keep track of total paid and owing. The remainder of the balance is required before the bird goes home. All prices are subject to change at our discretion, dependant on availability and market pricing, however a quoted price is locked in from the time of deposit and will not increase. We do not sell any unweaned/juvenile birds, and here is why . Freight is available to most major airports via Qantas or Virgin Australia, to read more about what is involved in air freighting, click here . All our birds are handraised in a loving family environment with children, exposure to regular household noises and are well adjusted to busy homes. Handraised babies are sold DNA tested, closed leg banded and come with an information pack including certificates, care information brochure, samples of food (pellet mix, sprout mix) a foot toy and safe shreddable toy. Breeding season is spring/summer, with babies hatching November through to January and going to new homes January through to March depending on hatch date. Meet and greet appointments are available once babies are 5 weeks or older. Last updated: 26th August 2026 green cheeked conures Now taking deposits for the coming season, enquire via mobile or Facebook . Our expected colour combinations this year are: SFV Turquoise (possibility only) DFV Turquoise SFV Turquoise Opaline (hens only), DFV Turquoise Opaline (hens only) SFV Turquoise Pineapple, DFV Turquoise Pineapple DFV Turquoise Cinnamon SFV Green, DFV Green DFV Green Cinnamon High Red Pineapple Wondering what each colour looks like? Click here to check out our chart. 2026/27 Pricing: $1000 : DF Violet Turquoise variants (normal, cinnamon, pineapple, opaline) $650 : SF Violet Turquoise variants, DF Violet Green variants (normal, cinnamon, pineapple, opaline) $600 : High Red Pineapple $500 : SF Violet Green variants (normal, cinnamon, pineapple, opaline) quakers Now taking deposits for the coming season, enquire via mobile or Facebook . Our expected colour combinations this year are: Green, Green Pallid Dark Green, Dark Green Pallid Lutino Blue, Blue Pallid, Blue Opaline Turquoise, Turquoise Pallid, Turquoise Opaline Cobalt, Cobalt Pallid, Cobalt Opaline Cobalt Turquoise, Cobalt Turquoise Pallid, Cobalt Turquoise Opaline Why settle for a standard blue or green, when you can have a quaker in a unique colour? Click here to check out our chart showing the different colours. 2026/27 Pricing: $550 : Blue, Green $650 : Cobalt, Dark Green $700 : Blue Pallid, Green Pallid, Blue Opaline, Green Opaline $800 : Lutino, Cobalt Pallid, Dark Green Pallid, Cobalt Opaline $1000 : Turquoise, Cobalt Turquoise $1200 : Turquoise Pallid, Turquoise Opaline $1500 : Cobalt Turquoise Pallid, Cobalt Turquoise Opaline Note: While the colours above are possibilities for this season, I cannot guarantee it will definitely be produced in the nest. Some of our pairs can produce up to 12 different colours but will only have 4-6 babies. Bourke's Parrots Now taking deposits for the coming season, enquire via mobile or Facebook . 2026/27 Pricing: Rosa (pink) : $350 Rosa (yellow) : $350

Learn how to make your own bird toys with safe components DIY BIRD TOYS https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPWg1maiIwZ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Natural Components Paddlepop / Popsicle sticks Chinese finger traps (eBay, Temu, Aliexpress Bamboo Raffia Seagrass Seagrass cording Sola Timber blocks plastic components Plastic chain C Clips Round counters (Officeworks , Linking cubes (Officeworks , threading beads (Officeworks , Giant nuts and bolts (Officeworks , Soft animal counters, would only recommend for young babies (Officeworks-Transport , Officeworks-Animals , Officeworks-Dinosaurs , Cotton reels (Officeworks , metal components Stainless steel chain stainless steel spoons other free play items Silicon stacking cups (Officeworks , Foraging Tray

It's a nerve-wracking time bringing a new parrot home for the first time. Make sure you're you know what to expect once they are home with our easy step-by-step guide. after Bringing Your New Parrot Home Read your paperwork the ride home resist the urge to get them out of the carrier with clean hands, you can put your hand in the carrier slowly and give gentle scratches or strokes first few days barrons 112-113 watching to make sure it is eating keep them quiet watch their cues its okay to get them out if they are wanting to be with you quiet and calm environment isolate from children and the hustle and bustle for at least the first week dont allow children to poke fingers into their cage or face nightlights it will take time to become comfortable in an unfamiliiar environment be patient and compassionate gone from a flock environment with familiar people to a strange house, strange people, new sights and smells and sounds and they don't know where their friends have gone used to sleeping with their friends dont know where things are like windows, doors, mirrors, etc stick to a small room, like a bedroom should not be unsupervised Establish their cage as their safe space Somewhere where they are not threatened and can relax, plenty of food and access to different types of toys that might pique their interest don't overload the cage with lots of toys and branches natural for them to be scared of the new cage at first hard to get them back in luring with food Getting them in their new cage Establish their cage as their safe space Somewhere where they are not threatened and can relax, plenty of food and access to different types of toys that might pique their interest don't overload the cage with lots of toys and branches natural for them to be scared of the new cage at first hard to get them back in luring with food continue with association cues (like a whistle, or "snack" covering the top and back of the cage cover while bird is not in the cage quarantine here quarantine here building trust here Finding your rhythm here taking outside Do not trust that cannot fly - do not take outside without carrier (barrons pg 110)