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the importance of self care Owning a companion parrot is so rewarding, and it is our responsibility and privilege to facilitate expression of their natural behaviours like bathing. A bird in captivity for the most part relies on us to encourage and provide the tools they need to maintain peak health in the best way possible. If the conditions in our homes and facilities is not sufficient, not only does their quality of life suffer, but it will also affect their mental and physical well-being. Bathing Why Is Bathing Important? Allowing opportunity for your parrot to bathe in clean water is not only enjoyable to watch but essential for their health for so many reasons: Feather Maintenance: Bathing helps them to reset their feathers, removing residual dust, dirt, food and oils from being handled. In turn, this helps their feathers to hold heat better and be realigned properly for efficient flight Thermoregulation: Birds are not able to cool themselves down by sweating, so they raise their wings from their body and pant. by bathing in water, they are able to bring their body temperature down to safe levels Moulting: It helps them to loosen those keratin sheaths that come through on new feathers, making it easier for them to preen and feel more comfortable. Socialisation: Often bathing is a group sport: we see this a lot with our babies - one jumps in for a bath and all of a sudden all their friends are in there too! In the wild, they would spend their time preening eachother after a bathing session. Enrichment: They also really just love to have a bath, and find it fun! Oil Distribution: When birds heavily preen after a bath, they are distributing oil from their preen gland (uropygial gland) located on their rump above their tail feathers. This oil is important for water resistance Parasite Control: This is more relevant to wild birds, but still a fascinating mechanism to include! It is important to carefully observe their body language when offering a bathing option to your bird. A willing participant will likely vocalise excitedly, and rush to investigate whatever you're holding. With a new container or if they haven't bathed before, it is natural that they would be weary or even frightened; do not push them to bathe if they clearly do not want to. Bathing in a dish or tray Most conures and quakers love to "swim" in a shallow container or tray. Use a shallow-sided dish filled 2-4cm deep with cool water that they are able to climb in and out of without help. All that flapping will make quite a mess, so pop your container on a towel or puppy pee pad to catch the excess water. You can use really any plastic or ceramic dish or container, such as Tupperware/Decor/Sistema, pet bowls, shallow ceramic bowls or dishes, or even designated electronic bird baths which cycle the water through a tap. We have listed a few options at the bottom of this section. The trickling sound of water is quick to set off their instincts to bathe, so be mindful when washing dishes that they can't jump into hot water. We have a small tray on the sink in our kitchen to fill up when we let our birds out, that they have learned is just for them. You can swish your hand in the water to entice them to come investigate, especially when using a new container. Use phrases like "want a bath?" or "come for a bath!" to start to build that association that the word bath means they get to experience the water. Bathing by a mister bottle Some parrots like cockatoos, cockatiels and Bourke's prefer to be misted, rather than dunk themselves under the water. Use a large bottle with spray nozzle, that hasn't been used for chemicals. Label it clearly to avoid any mishaps, so it is only used for bird bathing purposes. Fill the bottle with cool water and spray on a fine mist setting; your bird will open out its wings and fluff Bathing Inside the Cage Your parrot might like to bath inside their cage in their water dish, even if you think they might not fit inside it! Make sure that you are changing out their water daily, or provide a second larger container they might prefer to bath in instead. if they are bathing inside their cage you will have to be mindful to clean out the bottom of the cage regularly, as the dropped food and faeces sitting in water will mould quickly, start to smell and attract flies, ants and other bugs. Going into the Shower our showers are often too noisy and forceful for our smaller parrots to not be fearful sitting on the top rail or glass. Our conure loves to sit on top of the shower head and mutter to his reflection and tap his beak. no shampoo, body wash, etc even if it doesn't meet our expectation of what we believe they should do to bathe, it can still be a very enriching experience to shower a shower with us. takes a lot of trust for them to be in the shower with you Drying off They will look like a sopping, drowned rat won't be able to fly as well with waterlogged feathers, more likely to hurt themselves they will shiver, which is normal and is their body producing the body heat and expanding out their feathers to dry off faster warm and out of drafts hair dryer can easily burn or scare them read their body language might need to be further away they might obsessively preen themselves to make sure all the feather barbs go back in the right place. SENSORY PLAY TRAY CERAMIC PET BOWL ELECTRONIC BIRD BATH ACRYLIC BIRD BATH Sunshine and UV lighting Why is Sunlight Important? While the main benefit of sunlight (ultraviolet light) is to stimulate Vitamin D production, it also has many other benefits (for birds and humans, alike!) like regulating sleep cycles and mood, boosting immune function, lowering blood pressure and killing off potential bacteria and pathogens which cause infections. Modern homes with darkened windows can make it challenging to ensure your parrot is receiving adequate vitamin D to metabolise the calcium they are consuming in their diet. The absorbed sunlight then converted to a useable form within the liver and kidneys. Unfortunately, direct or indirect sunlight through glass windows blocks most of the UVB rays, but still allows 45-75% UVA rays to pass through. The best way to absorb Vitamin D and UV rays is always going to be through direct sunlight. What is Vitamin D? Vitamin D is a vitamin that is absorbed in sunlight through the skin, an essential process which regulates calcium production and immune function. It acts like a hormone which helps cells and organs to function properly, and is required to absorb other nutrients essential for growing and maintaining healthy bones (such as phosphorous and calcium). Without a healthy level of Vitamin D and calcium, your parrots bones can become weak and brittle, and start negatively affecting their blood health too (red blood cells are produced in the red bone marrow, liver and spleen). Symptoms of Vitamin D Deficiency Vitamin D deficiency is a very serious issue which should be dealt with promptly before it becomes potentially fatal. Some symptoms that may indicate your bird is not getting enough Vitamin D include weak bones (increased risk of fractures and subsequent difficulty healing), flakey and damage to beaks, reduced feather quality (thin, dull), difficulty perching, lethargy and unwillingness to explore their cage, and thinner shelled eggs in hens. In severe cases there is risk of paralysis and death. What is Calcium? When we consider calcium, we often think of bones and teeth. But calcium also plays an important role in many other bodily functions as well, like contracting muscles and making sure blood vessels contract properly. While most of a parrot's calcium is stored within the skeletal long bones, a small amount is also found in the bloodstream and muscles. Birds generally have a higher calcium percentage found in the muscles compared to mammals to account for the need for flight and higher metabolism. Sources of calcium include supplements (liquid or powder, see below for product recommendations), pumice perches (chalky, not sandpaper ones), dark leafy green vegetables (such as kale, spinach, mustard greens, pak choy), cuttlefish bones and fortified pellets. However, you can be providing enough dietary calcium but still be causing a deficiency if your parrot does not have access to sunlight in order to metabolise the calcium they have consumed. Prevention is most definitely better than the cure. Symptoms of Calcium Deficiency When we think of calcium deficiency, two things often come to mind: egg binding and osteoporosis (break down of internal bone structure reducing bone density). It presents itself in systems related to bone and muscle function; issues with flight and coordination, weakness and abnormality in perching stance, seizures and altered mood (aggressive behaviour). A hen which is egg bound lacks the appropriate level of calcium in the muscles to contract and expel the egg, and if not treated urgently will lead to death. UVB/UVA/Full Spectrum Lighting Kits In places that have less access to natural sunlight, like longer winters or inclement weather, another option is to use Full Spectrum UV Bird Lighting. They work by emitting UVA and UVB rays which can be absorbed by your bird through the cage, however they are not as strong as natural sunlight. There is conflicting information online as to the required distance from light to bird to actually be making enough of a difference. There are also reports of the bright lighting causing cataracts in birds as well, which proves this new innovation requires a lot more research before committing to. The best solution to this issue is simply to schedule time into your life to give your bird access to natural sunlight each week. Walks and Outdoor Time Ideally, your parrot should receive a minimum of 15 minutes of direct outdoor sunlight 3 times a week. If worked into your routine it can provide a great opportunity for bonding and trust building. It is important not to leave them unattended outdoors without adequate protection from predators (hawks and butcherbirds will pull them through the cage bars, snakes, etc), but here are some ideas for getting more sunshine with your bird: Sitting outside in the morning/afternoon in a small carry cage, paired with a tasty snack while you have your cuppa Going for a walk outside in a backpack (cloth ones are best, that aren't darkened), or even sitting in a small cage while you are in the garden An outdoor aviary or patio aviary - be mindful of transfers to avoid escapes or consider adding a double door system (examples: VidaXL , EasyShed , AviOne , VidaXL etc) Either stand alone or enclosed into existing structure (eg: Catnets , I would recommend the reinforced stainless steel version) Small aviary or cage attached to side of the house with window access, easy to pop bird through safely, or one of the aviary systems above secured to the house exit so you can sit in there with them (easy to purchase materials like welded sheet mesh from Bunnings ) wheeling cage outside - secure all doors with clips, remove external feeders like Seed Mates/acrylic box feeders and water baths. Supplements We recommend you add a supplement once or twice a week to your bird's diet, to ensure you are covering the dietary need for vitamin D and calcium. These can be found in liquid or powder form, and some have additional vitamins and minerals which are a great supplement to a varied diet. Below are some easily obtainable products: Passwell Liquid Gold (liquid) Dosage: 20mL/L in drinking water, 40mL/kg of soaked seed or soft food, direct to beak dose 0.2mL/100g body weight (0.14mL for conures or 0.19mL for quakers Active Ingredients: Calcium (Ca2+) 33g/L, Magnesium (Mg2+) 1.6g/L, Manganese (Mn2+) 100mg/L, Vitamin D3 25000iu/L, Lutein 50mg/L Vetafarm Soluvite D (powder) Dosage in water: 4g into 40mL of warm water (30°C – 40°C), stir well to dissolve. Then add the mixed 40mL solution to 360mL of drinking water. Prepared water should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Use as the sole source of water and prepare fresh solution daily. Dosage in food: Sprinkle 4g of Soluvite D onto 4 cups of food and combine well. Active Ingredients: Vitamin A 1,000,000 IU, Vitamin D3 250,000 IU, Vitamin E 2,500 IU, Vitamin K 2,000mg, Niacin 5,000mg, Pantothenic Acid 1,242mg, Riboflavin 1,200mg, Thiamine 470mg, Pyridoxine 400mg, Cyanocobalamin (B12) 5mg, Folic Acid 225mg, Choline Bitartrate 40mg, Biotin 10mg, Iodine 200mg Vetafarm Calcivet (liquid) Dosage: 5mL per 250mL water (1 tsp per cup), 5mL/1 cup soaked seed or soft food, direct to beak 0.2mL (4 drops) per 100g body weight Active Ingredients: Calcium 33g, Vitamin D3 25000 IU Vetafarm D Nutrical (powder) Use twice weekly for maintenance and daily during breeding. Introductory Dosage: Start with a dose of 5g per kg of feed and gradually increase to 20g over 6 feeds. Maintenance Dosage: Add 20g per kg of food to boost active calcium levels. Active Ingredients: 310mg Calcium (31%), Vitamins A, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, B12, C, D3, and E, Phosphorus, Sodium, Iodine, Potassium, Iron, Cobalt, Copper, Magnesium and Manganese. Calcivite Plus (liquid) Dosage: 5–10ml per 1L of drinking water Active Ingredients: TBA nail clipping Baby birds have needle sharp points on their toenails to help them perch, and not fall and injure themselves, but this means tiny scratches over our hands, shoulders and arms. Clipping their toenails at home is relatively easy, provided you How do I know when its time to trim? curve of the nail touching a flat surface toe pads still on surface not raised up How do I trim nails? Emery board / nail file Nail clippers Cat claw clippers (smaller than dog clippers) Dremel tool with small sanding wheels (advanced) Moulting 1 to 2 times a year usually one is heavier moult older feathers can have a duller appearance in colour, and have damaged edges, especially if in an aviary setting. sun bleaching Preening here If they are not preening, this could indicate an underlying issue with their diet, internal disease, or even pain and mobility. encourage baths help with preening pin feathers seek veterinary advice BEAK & Foot HEALTH scaly feet and flaky beak vitamin e coconut oil Air Quality air purifiers candles cigarette smoke dust and dander

Brisbane and South East Queensland's leading breeder of Bourke's Parrots for companion parrots green-cheeked CONURE: SPECIES PROFILE The humble green-cheek is a very popular pet bird, for good reason. We might be a little biased, but we think they are so pretty darn spectacular! The size of a cockatiel with the personality of a macaw and full of mischief and crazy antics. They are highly social, generally quiet, great with children and brilliant fliers. They are very fast learners, and can even learn to say a few words and tricks. Although they are not overly noisy, their infrequent alert calls can pose problems to people living in apartment complexes. They are more chatty than screechy. If you want a tiny shoulder companion who is always up for snuggles, a conure might just be the right pet for you! COMMON NAMES Green-cheeked conure, green-cheeked parakeet, green-cheeked parrot SCIENTIFIC NAME Pyrrhura molinae 10 inches (26cm) and between 60 and 80 grams aDULT SIZE LIFE EXPECTANCY With adequate diet, care, health, stimulation and love, your green-cheeked conure can live up to 25-30 years. However, most live only 10 years, due to owner neglect. This is why it is imperative to learn and grow our knowledge about avian care. ORIGIN AND HISTORY The Green-Cheeked Conure is native to South America, living in the forests of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. In the wild, they tend to live in large flocks of 10-20 birds. Colours and markings Green-cheeked conures are monomorphic, meaning both sexes have identical colouring. They naturally occur as 'green/natural' and 'yellowsided' in the wild, but there are a multitude of new colours that have been developed in captivity. They are characterised by their vivid colours: red tails, green and blue wing feathers, black head plumage and bare white rings around their eyes. Some colours that are bred in captivity are: pallid (cinnamon), pineapple, opaline (yellowsided), parblue (or more commonly referred to as turquoise), turquoise yellowsided, turquoise cinnamon, turquoise pineapple, and even pied, violet (single and double factor) and dilute. To learn more about the different colour mutations, read here . housing requirements Conures, by nature, are very inquisitive, playful parrots. They need to have adequate room to play, forage, fly/flap and explore their surroundings. For birds, this is usually a cage or enclosure, which becomes your bird's "safe place". Their cage should provide sufficient room to freely spread both wings. Choose the largest cage you can afford and that will fit well in your space. A cage recommended to house a green-cheeked conure should be at the very least 60x60x60cm, but recommended 80x90x55cm with between 15-19mm wide bar spacing. A cage with a playtops and doors with locking mechanisms are an advantage. Select natural branches to use as perches, as these provide different thicknesses, textures and enrichment to promote foot health. Conures love to chew and should be given ample toys for the sole purpose of destroying and keeping them occupied. We purchase all our toys from Unique Beaks Handmade Bird Toys which are made with bird-safe natural dyes, stainless steel, plastic, wood and accessories. You can find them on Facebook here. Items such as pony beads, paddlepop sticks, paper, untreated pine, paper straws, wax-free cupcake liners, and finger traps make great toys for inquisitive beaks to shred. Some metals, such as galvanised steel, lead, and zinc can cause metal poisoning, so it is best to use stainless steel wherever possible. Feeding your conure a balanced, nutritionally dense, varied diet is imperative to maintaining healthy physical and mental wellbeing. This should consist of a base diet of formulated pellets, low-fat seeds, sprouted seed, vegetables and a small amount of fruit. For more details on diet and nutrition for your parrot, read about it here. diet and nutrition common health problems Conures are known to be susceptible to feather plucking. This could have medical causes, or it could be contributed by boredom, or lack of mental stimulation (handling, variation in routine, not enough/any toys). Annual (or more often if required) checkups are highly advised to ensure your parrot is in best health, as diagnosis and treatment of any disease or illness can be given earlier rather than later. Diseases known to affect conures include: Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD: An incurable viral disease. Symptoms: regurgitation, crop impaction, poor appetite, weight loss, weakness, muscle wastage), Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease. (PBFD: An incurable, contagious viral disease which attacks feather follicles, beak and claw tissue. Symptoms: damaged and deformed feathers, claws and beak, cracking and peeling of the outer layers of the claws and beak, lethargy, vomiting/diarrhoea) Beak malocclusion (Misaligned beak ie. scissor beak. Can be caused by beak injury/trauma. Symptoms: beak not lining up properly when closed) Aspergillosis (A sickness from exposure to mould spores. Symptoms: severe difficulty breathing, decreased/loss of appetite, frequent drinking and urination, cyanosis (a bluish coloration of mucous membranes and/or skin), sudden death) Here are some avian vets in South East Queensland whom we have good dealings with and feel confident enough to recommend. There are others in the southern corner, however we would not recommend them. THE EXOTICS VET Dr. Vanessa Harkess BVSC (Hons I) MANZCVS (Avian Health) 22 Ashmole Road, Redcliffe QLD Phone: (07) 3060 2112 Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 5pm, Closed Sunday and Monday https://theexoticsvet.com/ BRISBANE BIRD VET Dr. Adrian Gallagher BVSC (Hons) MANZCVS (Avian Health) 248 Hamilton Rd, Chermside QLD Phone: (07) 3359 2233 Hours: Monday, Wednesday, Friday 9am to 5pm, Tuesday and Thursday until 7pm, Weekends closed https://brisbanebirdvet.com.au/ BRISBANE BIRD & EXOTICS VETERINARY SERVICE Dr. Deborah Monks BVSc (Hons), Cert Zoo Med (RCVS), ECZM Diplomate (Avian Medicine), FANZCVS (Avian Medicine and Surgery) 191 Cornwall Street, Greenslopes, QLD Phone: (07) 3217 3533 Hours: Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6:00pm, Saturday 8:30am to 12:00pm, Closed Sundays & Public Holidays https://bbevs.com.au/

A bored bird is a naughty bird, but how do you keep a parrot busy? Check out our tips on enriching your parrots environment: THE IMPORTANCE OF ENRICHMENT Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Parrots are extremely intelligent, and just like our human toddlers, need lots to do to keep them entertained and out of mischief. The dictionary definition of enrichment is: "the action of improving or enhancing the quality or value of something." Owning a parrot means we are required to meet their physical, mental, emotional needs and improve their quality of life. When it comes to birds, this can mean a few different things; including exercise, provision of toys, foraging opportunities, ability to chew and destroy, and - if they are companions - human interaction. Birds that do not have their needs met will begin to suffer; they may pluck their feathers, self mutilation, screech excessively, gain weight and become nippy or aggressive. exercise Parrots require a decent level of exercise to keep in shape, whether in the form of free flying around your home, on a flight harness (we use this one ), on a play gym with ladders and swings or a combination of all. In an ideal world, it is optimal that your parrot remains flighted, however we understand that this may not be a safe option for your bird or situation. Parrots love to explore, and anything that you are doing is certainly interesting to them! Take your bird along with you while you do safe household activities, like watching tv, folding washing, vacuuming and mopping, or even in the shower! You are a part of their "flock" and they love to feel close to you and included. Foraging In the wild, parrots spend a significant amount of their day searching and foraging for food, but in captivity it is so readily available that they don't have to work for it. There are many foraging systems available to encourage natural behaviours such as treat boxes, baffle cages and acrylic designs. Foraging usually includes a food reward, like finding a nut or seed within a compartment, or could be as simple as wrapping some of their pellets or chunk of vegetable or fruit in some craft paper. Empty toilet rolls can also be filled with crinkle paper and seed/pellets then wrapped in paper. There are so many different designs for foraging toys, and they can be purchased online and in store relatively easily. Pet City Mt Gravatt (store and online) Parrot Supplies Australia (store and online) eBay (search forage feeder or parrot forage toy) Click through below to see more information on these products: BAFFLE CAGE VIEW TREAT BOXES VIEW NUT CAGE VIEW FORAGE CUPS VIEW ACRYLIC BALL VIEW FRUIT SKEWER VIEW branches Tactile enrichment, or enrichment that your parrot can touch and physically interact with, is also extended to their perches and cage environment. Branches should be of varying shapes, widths and textures, in replicating their natural environment the best we can. Not only does this trim their beaks and nails, but it also helps with to exercise their balancing and climbing abilities and gives something to chew and shred. Perches hung from the top of the cage with wire (stainless steel is 100% safe, unlike galvanised) simulates branches that move and sway in the wind, as do swings. Plastic and dowel perches that come with most bird cages should be discarded or repurposed into toys (see Toys section below) and replaced with natural branches. The general rule of thumb is if its native, it is fine for your bird. Some common examples are Banksia, Beech, Bottlebrush/ Callistemon, Palms (they especially like the fruit fronds), Grevillea, Gum, Ironbark, Bunya, Lilly Pilly, Paperbark, Pine and Jacaranda. Fresh branches should also be given, either as a new perch with the leaves on, or placed into a holder on the side of the cage to destroy as well. toys In addition to foraging toys, regular interactive or shredding toys are excellent for keeping the mind of your parrot busy. Their natural instinct to chew, shred, and tear apart their environment can easily be directed to toys, and away from things like towels, furniture and themselves (plucking). It is a misconception that it is "inconvenient" or "too expensive" that a parrot is destroying their toys. This is good! A busy parrot is a happy parrot, and it is so important they are given these opportunities to express natural behaviour. Parrots are also naturally independant and love making choices; provide ample toys made of different components and colours. Switch out with spare toys each week or fortnight to keep them engaged, and always check toys over for safety. DIY Toy Components Making your own bird toys can be rewarding, economical and a great activity to do with children and family. When choosing components, it is important to ensure they are chemical free and kid-safe approved if applicable. You can find inexpensive pieces in common department stores here in Australia, like Spotlight, Woolworths, Bunnings and Officeworks. Colourful beads, soft balsa or pine wood, seagrass and jingly bells are amazing enrichment products for your parrot. Avoid any items which are already painted (ie painted wooden beads); opt for the natural finish instead and colour them yourself. It is important to use stainless steel wire when constructing toys, as this is an item designed to be chewed. Stainless steel is a non toxic metal, as opposed to zinc (galvanised), copper and lead which, if ingested, can cause heavy metal toxicity and possibly death. Dyeing wood pieces and beads at home is so economical, and only requires a few items from the grocery store. You don't need any fancy equipment or products; simply Queen food colouring (comes in red , pink , yellow , green and blue ) for $1.10 and some white vinegar (2L for $1.20 ). Simply mix 250mL of warm water and 25mL of colouring in an old container (this may get stained) and stir to combine the colour. Place your wooden pieces in, give a quick stir or shake, and allow to soak for a few hours or overnight. The longer they soak the more vibrant they will become. After they have soaked, remove from the solution and place on paper or paper towel to dry (dependent on weather, temperature and humidity). Are you ready to make your own toys? Check out some of my favourite components: Wood Ring Beads Spotlight $4.50 | 5 pack VIEW Seagrass Mat Bunnings $4.17 VIEW Plastic Chain Bunnings $12.73-19.12 | 10m VIEW Plastic Lacing Beads Officeworks $29.95 | 96 pack VIEW Plastic C Clips eBay $6-7 | 100 pack VIEW Wooden Cutlery Kmart $2 | 18 pack VIEW Loofah Sponges eBay $1-2 each VIEW Wooden Feathers Spotlight $4 | 12 pack VIEW Paper Straws IKEA $2.99 | 100 pack VIEW Rattan Balls eBay $13-14 | 20 pack VIEW Pop Sticks Bunnings $4.10 | 150 pack VIEW Jute Twine Bunnings $3.20 | 75m VIEW Paper Rope Bunnings $10.79 | 40m VIEW Stainless Link Bunnings $4 | 8mm VIEW Wooden Beads eBay $5-7 | 50 pack VIEW Wooden Beads Spotlight $10 | 235g pack VIEW Pony Beads Spotlight $12 VIEW Wooden Pegs Kmart $2 | 9 pack VIEW Wooden Cubes Spotlight $6.50 | 72 pack VIEW Paper Straws Woolworths $3.00 | 100 pack VIEW Pop Sticks Officeworks $8.98 | 1000 pack VIEW Wooden Components Spotlight $10 | 235 pack VIEW Seagrass Cording Spotlight $30 | 65m VIEW Plastic Heart Beads Spotlight $8.50 | 125g VIEW Stainless Wire Bunnings $17.49 | 15m VIEW Plastic Bell Balls eBay $6-8 | 18 pack VIEW Stainless Spoons IKEA $5.99 | 6 pack VIEW Loofah Sponges Spotlight $6.50 ea VIEW Wooden Pegs Spotlight $5 | 10 pack VIEW Wooden Beads Spotlight $10 | 260g pack VIEW Pine Blocks Kmart $5.50 pack (48pc) VIEW Pop Sticks Kmart $3.25 | 200 pack VIEW

Keeping your parrot healthy is a full time job, but do you know what they should eat? Read about conure and quaker diets here: the importance of balanced nutrition Avian nutrition is a topic that is ever-evolving; as parrot owners it is our responsibility to be informed and growing our knowledge in this area to ensure we are taking the best care of our birds. What your bird eats is so often neglected, which leads to a multitude of health issues such as moulting disorders, respiratory disease, growth abnormalities (beak, nail, tumours, etc), poor reproduction, egg binding and poor immune function. It is of utmost importance to learn and provide the most appropriate diet to our birds to keep them healthy, happy and problem free. In the wild, birds have access to literally hundreds of foods; their environment like a never ending buffet. Fruits and vegetables should be a main staple for your bird. Offering an assortment of food items will ensure your conure remains healthy throughout its life, given daily and served fresh, as spoiled fruits and vegetables will make your bird sick. It is recommended to provide a base diet of formulated pellets, supplemented with seeds, nuts, fruit and vegetables. what do we feed our parrots? We wean our baby birds onto a diet of our DIY pellet mix, chopped vegetables, soaked seed and sprouts. Pellets In Australia, we are quite fortunate to have such a wide variety of quality pellets. Pellets are a compact, formulated diet made from grains, seeds, vegetables, fruits, and fortified vitamins and minerals. This prevents birds from picking out preferable seeds from their dish and helps to bridge the gap to balanced nutrition. As a 'base' for a parrot diet, pellets should make up approximately 40-60% of their overall food intake. However, a pelleted diet does not provide the variety and stimulation that parrots require and would receive in a wild environment (this is where the other elements come in, like fruit, vegetables, seed and foraging toys). Offer a dish of pellets available to your bird at all times, mixing a small amount of quality seed in additionally. A mix of three or four different pellets will increase the enrichment value of foraging, while also creating that variation that they crave. Some products we recommend are: You can find the above pellets at most independent pet shops and online, here are a few to check out: Get Flocked (Vetafarm, Zupreem, Hari, Harrisons) Chipper Parrots (Vetafarm, Zupreem, Hari) Parrot Supplies (Vetafarm, Zupreem, Lauke Mills, Hari, plus also Versele Laga, Tops) Pet Shop Direct (Vetafarm, Zupreem, Roudybush, Hari, plus Versele Laga) Pet Circle (Vetafarm) Petstock (Vetafarm) Petbarn (Vetafarm) There are other brands, such as Versele Laga, TOPS and Harrisons, which are premium quality, imported products however we have not had the chance to use them yet, in favour of more affordable, easily obtainable options like those above. We have also tried Vetafarm B Calm, its unclear for us whether it actually improved anything. Use at your own discretion. It does look like Roudybush has been discontinued but still available sporatically. FRUIT AND VEGETABLES It is extremely important that conures have access to fresh vegetables and fruit (sparingly) multiple times a week. Not only is this closer to their natural diet, but also provides hydration having a high moisture content. There are some foods, however, that are toxic to birds, so it is important to know what you can and can't give to your feathered friend. FRUIT Apple (no seeds) Banana Blueberry Cherry Dates Goji berries Grape Kiwifruit Lychee (no seed) Mango Nectarine Orange Papaya Passionfruit Peach (no seed) Pear Pineapple Plum (no seed) Pomegranate Raspberry Strawberry Watermelon HERBS Parsley, mint, basil, etc. VEGETABLES Beans Beetroot Broccoli Carrot Capsicum Chili (birds have no heat sense) Cauliflower Corn Cucumber Celery Fennel Greens (bok choy, chard, endive, rocket, silver beet, kale) Parsnip Peas Pumpkin Sweet potato Zucchini BEANS & LEGUMES Chickpeas (garbanzo), kidney beans, black beans, pinto beans, etc. Wholemeal rice, wholemeal pasta OTHER Alternative seeds: chia seeds, flaxseed, alfalfa, barley, buckwheat, oats, sunflower, wheat berries, millet, quinoa, pepita (pumpkin seed) Nuts (unsalted): Almond, Brazil, Cashew, Peanut, Hazelnut, Macadamia, Pine nut, Pecan, Pistachio Cuttlefish (especially breeding hens) Boiled eggs Plain/unsalted rice cakes TOXIC Alcohol Avocado Cheese and dairy Chives Chocolate Coffee/tea Junk foods Mouldy foods/grains Mushrooms Iceburg Lettuce (gives diarrhoea) Onion Rhubarb (especially the leaves) seed mix It is becoming more commonly known that an all-seed diet is not nutritionally balanced. Seeds given in moderation (just like the tip of the food pyramid) is beneficial, and some species like cockatiels and corellas can handle a higher percentage of seeds in their diet. But offering a seed-only diet to your conure or quaker would ultimately be sacrificing their health and wellbeing, and setting them up for poor quality of life and shortened lifespan. It leads to your birds ageing a lot faster than they should, making them vulnerable to respiratory diseases, obesity, fatty liver disease, bone deformities and dull brittle feathers. Let's look at the purpose of a seed, botanically: it provides a large amount of energy (in the form of fats) to power the germination and sprouting into a new plant. It then expends that energy as it grows and changes form (i.e. inert seed to living plant) and changes chemically and nutritionally. So providing an all seed diet, high in fats, oils and lacking in many minerals, amino acids and vitamins; is essentially feeding small parcels of starchy, fatty calories equivalent of a life eating only hamburgers. Seed mixes, like Avigrain Cockatiel Blue or Peachface, or a mixture of both, are a great choice. Some commercial seed mixes contain sorghum and corn, which are fillers that are not usually eaten. Alternatively, sprouting seed and giving it to your birds changes the nutritional value of them and is highly beneficial and a great, nutrient dense food. sproutED seed Sprouted seed has a much higher nutritional value than dry or soaked seed. As the seed, pea or bean germinates, it starts to use that stored energy and convert it to a highly bioavailable food source with more protein and less fat. It is best to allow the sprouts to grow small tails before you feed. Sprouts are great for breeding birds, making it easier for parents to feed their young a softer, palatable food, as well as the nutrients it provides for growing muscle and new feathers. A good sprouting mix will be economical, fresh, easy to germinate and fantastic fuel for your little parrots' body. You can find our comprehensive article on sprouting at home here.

It's a nerve-wracking time bringing a new parrot home for the first time. Make sure you're prepared with our easy step-by-step guide. hOUSEHOLD DANGERS FOR YOUR PARROT do not impulse buy here bird proofing your home Keeping their environment safe, parrots are like toddlers, and explore their surroundings with their feet and beaks ceiling fans mirrors windows neck injuries or even instant death. Heat and cooking hazards hot stoves - burns on feet ovens blenders teflon coatings in ovens (pyrolytic ovens), sandwich press, Buckets of water, toilets, sinks, soaking items on the sink, sink of water https://www.petmd.com/bird/care/bird-proofing-your-home-101-everything-you-need-know bathing here bathing here bathing here

Which is the best bird cage for your parrot? Read how to choose a cage and set it up for your bird. SETTING UP A BIRD CAGE When buying a companion parrot, its easy to get overwhelmed with the sheer choice and variety of cages and enclosures you can find online. A cage is your bird's safe space, so it is important to research well so you can set it up in a way that facilitates them to feel safe and secure. In this article, we are going to touch on the following topics: What kind of cage should I buy? Where should the cage go? What do I need for inside the cage? How to clean the cage Things to avoid inside your bird's cage and environment Picking a cage A bird cage isn't usually the most "Pinterest-worthy" décor item in the home, but it's more important than Nanna's china hutch for your bird. Most bird cages currently available are a powder coated wrought iron/steel, which is quite strong and durable. It is important to avoid metals such as zinc and lead which will poison and potentially kill your bird, however these are much less common in bird cages these days, thankfully. Poor quality galvanised steel and wire can also be dangerous, so it is important to thoroughly wash with soapy water, especially if you are using galvanised wire to construct your own enclosures. Small birds like conures and quakers don't need a massive cage if they are getting frequent, engaged time out of their enclosure. There are two rules of thumb: 1) buy as large as what fits to your space and budget, and 2) wider over taller. Your bird will most often be only using the top half of the cage, so prioritise width over height. The absolute minimum dimensions are 60 x 60 x 60cm, but I highly recommend around 80 x 90 x 55cm or larger, with the bar spacing between 15-19mm apart. This will give them ample space to fly and hop and spread their wings without damaging them or injuring themselves. A cage that is too small will cause the wing and tail feathers to appear shredded when they do not have enough room to turn and flap comfortably. This is often mistaken for self mutilation, but thankfully has a much easier solution to fix the problem. Ideally, your bird should be able to fly between perches and platforms not just climb or walk. Avoid cages that are round, often if the bird doesnt perceive a safe space inside their cage, you might see them hanging in the top corner of their cage , but recommended with between 15-19mm wide bar spacing. When looking at cages in store, make sure the panels are firm and the wire is well attached to the frame, the finish is clean and not flaking off, and the doors are able to close securely to prevent escape. Vertical sliding doors will often need to be fastened with a peg or snap hook (like this one from Bunnings) A cage with a playtop and doors with locking mechanisms are an advantage. It may be tempting to purchase second hand cages and aviaries on Marketplace or Gumtree, however there is a higher risk that you could be introducing disease and illness to your flock. It is not an automatic 'no', but you will need to be very particular about which cages you consider. With any second hand cage, you must sanitise with F10 veterinary disinfectant at a rate of 1:100 (10 ml per 1L water) to kill any bacteria, viruses and pathogens that can harm your birds. Ask yourself these questions: Is it clean? (don't even consider it if the seller has not attempted to clean before advertising) Is it complete? (are all doors functional and able to be secured? does it have the bottom grate - some cages this needs to be in place otherwise they can escape) Is there damage, flaking finish, rust, bent bars that can be escape points? Is it the right dimensions and bar spacing? Key points Ideally 80 x 90 x 55cm, or larger Optimal bar spacing 15-19mm, but not over 22mm Square, not round Made from quality mesh with secure locking mechanisms Swing feeders with stainless steel bowls are super convenient features Access doors may need to be secured with pegs or snap hooks our cage recommendations We have extensively researched the cages currently available and collated this list that we would recommend, based on various dimensions, configurations and price points. Click the pictures or product titles below to view relevant website listing: Green Parrot (BC1261) 127cm W x 61cm D x 98cm H Overall Height 166cm including stand Bar Spacing: 12mm Bar Thickness: 2mm Remove divider for more space Available from Pet Shop Direct Green Parrot (PC1076) 102cm W x 76 cm D x 158cm H Overall height 188cm including playtop Bar Spacing: 17mm Bar Thickness: 4mm Available from Pet Shop Direct Flyline (12432) 81cm W x 59cm D x 172cm H Bar Spacing: 20mm Bar Thickness: 4mm Available from GT Mall i.pet 61cm W x 42cm D x 74cm H Overall Height 144cm Bar Spacing: 15mm Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from Bunnings Marketplace Note: On the smaller side Avi One (904) 100.5cm W x 72.5cm D x 140cm H Overall height 171cm Bar Spacing: 10mm Bar Thickness: 2mm Available from Petstock Avi One (932SB) 96cm W x 74cm D x 112cm H Overall height 173cm Bar Spacing: Unknown Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from Petstock YES4PETS (185cm XXL) 110cm W x 110cm D x 152.5cm H Overall height 185cm Bar Spacing: 16.5mm Bar Thickness: 2.7mm Available from Bunnings Marketplace, Kogan, Dick Smith Avi One (604) 78cm W x 46cm D x 84cm H Overall height 160cm Bar Spacing: 10mm Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from Petstock Flyline (20033) 79cm W x 52cm D x 96.6cm H Overall Height 130cm Bar Spacing: 11mm Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from GT Mall Flyline (20045) 90cm W x 58.5cm D x 117cm H Overall height 152.4cm Bar Spacing: 11mm Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from GT Mall Flyline (10115D) 154cm W x 48cm D x 93cm H Overall height 163cm Bar Spacing: 12mm Bar Thickness: 2-3mm Remove divider for more space Available from GT Mall Watson & Williams (Extra Wide) 82cm W x 52cm D x ?cm H Overall Height 154cm Bar Spacing: Unknown Bar Thickness: Unknown Available from Petbarn Where to put the cage Where you place your bird's cage inside your home can drastically affect their mood and wellbeing, especially if they are isolated or exposed to temperature fluctuations. As we touched on in the beginning of this article, a bird's cage is their sanctuary and somewhere they should and need to feel comfortable. Easy to clean floor wheels or a stand make for easy to vacuum or sweep underneath like these IKEA castors , Furnishing the Cage Food and water containers https://www.petstock.com.au/products/lexi-me-lock-crock-feeder-variant-100000023677?queryID=f7d175873de71d9df496588251769fa2 https://www.petstock.com.au/products/avi-one-bird-bath-universal-variant-100000040150? queryID=711baed3bcdc56bf09f33e45b11b266f Perches Toys Huts Cleaning Cages For All if you notice clumps of droppings on a lower branch Things To avoid cage checklist Sturdy, clean metal with no flaking Minimum size 60 x 60, but ideally 80 x 90 x 60 or larger Bar spacing 15-19mm, no larger than 22mm apart Wash with soapy water and if second hand, sanitise with veterinary grade disinfectant (F10) Natural perches

Should I clip my parrots wings? If yes, how? In what circumstances should my bird be able to fly? We answer it all: the importance of Flight the benefits of being able to fly here page 77 conure handbook WING CLIPPING here page 77 conure handbook $534 imping Free Flight here page 77 conure handbook

It's a nerve-wracking time bringing a new parrot home for the first time. Make sure you're you know what to expect once they are home with our easy step-by-step guide. after Bringing Your New Parrot Home Read your paperwork on the ride home here first few days here quarantine here building trust here Finding your rhythm here taking outside Do not trust that cannot fly - do not take outside without carrier (barrons pg 110)

It's a nerve-wracking time bringing a new parrot home for the first time. Make sure you're prepared with our easy step-by-step guide. how to choose a new parrot here do not impulse buy here value transparency here ensure they are weaned here research what traits you desire Quakers page 70 (Barrons guide) bathing here

High Quality Tame Handraised Conures & Quakers bred in Brisbane by Maranatha Aviaries. Why buy your parrot from us? Find out now! ABOUT MARANATHA AVIARIES Welcome! I'm Camille, a companion parrot breeder located in the heart of the gorgeous Lockyer Valley. I keep, breed and handraise beautifully natured green-cheeked conures, quakers and Bourke's parrots in colours that are a little different to the rest! READ MORE WHY BUY YOUR NEXT BIRD FROM US? We know how important it is that your new family member is a perfect fit. Here's why: Tame & Friendly Each of our babies are handled every day, get plenty of snuggles and are doted on by our two kids. Matched To You We allow as much time as you need at your appointment, ensuring you find one that matches best to you. Play, snuggle and play some more. Social & Well-Mannered We believe being raised with a family enables our babies to integrate seamlessly from our home to yours. They learn etiquette with children and other flock members, step up commands and begin recall training. lifetime support We include a comprehensive care brochure, samples of food they are used to and some safe toys when you take your baby home, but the support doesn't stop there. You can contact us whenever you like, for as long as you like. Confident & PLAYFUL Our bird room a la "birdy penthouse" has a massive play stand to explore and interact with. We provide them with plenty of safe toys to chew and destroy. DNA Tested We DNA test and leg ring each one of our birds to guarantee you can choose the most compatible gender to add to your family; oh and pick the perfect name of course. View our available birds COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW Different colours, same exceptional quality. We breed a variety of colours in green, turquoise and violet. VIEW OUR COLOURS A CUT ABOVE THE REST Fancy a quaker that's a little different to the others? You've come to the right place: we have plenty of 'fancy' to choose from. VIEW OUR COLOURS

get in touch We are located in the heart of the Lockyer Valley, Queensland, roughly an hour west of Brisbane. 0423 470 041 Maranatha Aviaries Appointment only, when birds are available. No aviary tours. No international calls please. Please note: We are unable to export our birds overseas. You can read about Australian export laws here . Ready to Squawk? The best way to contact us is through Facebook Messenger via our Business page. That way we can send you all the pictures and videos without them being compressed and reduced in quality. The email form below is also a great option, but keep an eye on your junk/spam folder; we do reply I promise! Quite often our replies will end up in the promotional graveyard - gee thanks, technology! I would like to know more about: Choose an option Thanks for your message! We will get back to you shortly. Submit

BIRDS FOR SALE NAIL & Beak TRIMMING Nail clipping of parrots is simple, but can be quite a daunting task for an owner. Under normal circumstances, your bird generally won't require much more than light trim to remove the fine point. Overgrown nails that don't get worn down on their natural perches and pumice perches may need a little extra taken off to ensure the nail quick isn't extending too far into the length of the nail, and with regular We are able to clip your birds' nails Cost: $5 each bird https://birdtricksstore.com/blogs/birdtricks-blog/do-you-file-or-clip-your-bird-s-nails?srsltid=AfmBOorQpaXaKSks-i1i92sxKbiqqRardtg6QySlEwSv2trOSoVXkbI5 https://www.unusualpetvets.com.au/services/nail-clipping/ https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/beak-and-nail-care-in-birds